AN EVERYDAY HALTER BRALETTE
NOELLE
01
ABOUT MADALYNNE INTIMATES
03
02
OVERVIEW
04
03
SUPPLIES NEEDED
05
04
GETTING STARTED
07
05
CUTTING + DIRECTION OF GREATEST STRETCH
08
06
SEWING
13
07
STYLE INSPIRATION
14
08
MORE MADALYNNE
16
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
01: ABOUT
MADALYNNE
INTIMATES
@mmadalynne
Madalynne Inmates is the manifestaon of Maddie Flanigan’s
passion for sewing and teaching lingerie. She is the founder
and owner, and her budding brand oers ready made bras,
bralees, underwear, and bodysuits, as well as DIY lingerie kits,
lingerie sewing paerns, and bra making workshops. Every
piece is designed at Madalynne Studios and either assembled
in Philadelphia or sewn in Brooklyn; made in the USA being
important to the brand. Overall, Madalynne’s overarching vision
is to provide women with well ng inmates that support more
than just your shape. From a oral lace halter bralee to a cheeky
underwear, inmates that li your personal style. At the same
me, inmates worth baring.
www.madalynne.com
@mmadalynne
facebook.com/maddiemadalynne
pinterest.com/mmadalynne
Included in this packet is the Noelle halter bralee paern. Short
sewing instrucons and style inspiraon are included as well.
02:OVERVIEW
Noelle is aN everday halter bralee. The bralee features a racerback,
adjustable shoulder straps and a wide boom band. It is fully lined to add
support and comfort, and is nished with picot elasc. Bralee is available
in sizes XS-L.
Like many women these days, Noelle can be many things. It was inspired
by one of Maddies favorite me-made lingerie pieces and can be worn
as true lingerie, a layering piece underneath a button down blouse or a
v-neck sweater, or even a crop top. Its casual style also makes it a great
option for loungewear, a sleep bra and even a comfy option for yoga.
5/8 YD MAIN FABRIC:
This is the fabric that will
used for the outer layer of
the bralee. Paern was
designed to be made with
fabric that has 30-40%
stretch. Recommended
fabrics include stretch lace,
stretch mesh, jerseys, or any
fabric with 4-15% spandex.
5/8 YD LINING: This is
the fabric that will be used
to line the bralee. Paern
was designed to be made
with lining that has 30-40%
stretch. Recommended
linings include stretch mesh,
micro mesh and power net.
3 YDS PICOT PLUSH
ELASTIC 1/4” OR 3/8”
WIDE: This elasc will be
used to nish front neckline,
armhole, and underbust
seam of the bralee.
1 YD SHOULDER STRAP
ELASTIC, 3/8” WIDE: This
elasc will be used to for the
straps of the bralee.
1 RING 5/8” WIDE, 2
SLIDERS 3/8” WIDE: The
rings and sliders will be sewn
to the shoulder strap elastic.
The width of sliders should
be the same as the width of
the shoulder strap elastic.
03:SUPPLIES
NEEDED
2 YDS PICOT PLUSH
ELASTIC, 1/2” OR WIDER:
This elasc will be used to
nish the boom of the
bralee. The wider and rmer
the elasc, the more support
it will give the bralee.
ODIF’S 505 SPRAY:
Oponal, but highly
suggested. Used mostly to
spray baste main fabric to
lining prior to cung, but
also used during sewing in
luie of pins. My favorite brand
is Odifs 505 - no drying me
and does not gum up on
needles.
PINS: Regular pins are okay
to use. You do not need
special pins.
BALLPOINT NEEDLE:
Which type of needle you
use depends on the type
of fabric. For most stretch
laces, stretch meshes, jerseys
and similar stretch fabrics,
suggested to use a ballpoint,
stretch or microtex needle,
size 11, 12 and/or 14.
28MM ROTARY CUTTER:
You can use regular scissors,
but I suggest using a rotary
cuer to get the most precise
cut.
POLYESTER THREAD: As
opposed to coon thread,
polyester thread has give.
So it will stretch slightly with
your fabric.
04: GETTING STARTED
BRALETTE
FULL BUST (ACROSS THE
FULLEST PART OF THE BREAST)
28.5-30.5 in 30.5-32.5 in 32.5-34.5 in 34.5-36.5 in
XS S M L
PRINT PATTERN: Be sure that your printer settings are not set to scale
or zoom and that you are printing at 100%. To ensure you’re printing the
right size, first print out the page with the test square then measure to
ensure the square is 2” x 2”. If it isn’t, you may need to adjust your printer
settings.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seam allowances are 1/4” unless stated
otherwise.
FIND YOUR SIZE: Determine your size using the size chart below. If you
are between sizes, I suggest sizing UP. Generally, if you normally wear a
28/30 band, choose an X-SMALL, a 30/32 band - a SMALL, a 34/36 band - a
MEDIUM, a 38 band - a LARGE.
CUT PATTERN: Follow the instrucons to print your paern. Even though the direcons state
it, be sure that your test square measures 2” x 2”. Aer, use a pair of paper scissors or a rotary
cuer to cut along the black line on the right or the le edge. Then, overlap or bu the sheets
together so that the circles align. Tape together. Refer to the 3 photos below for reference. Next,
nd and cut out your size using the size chart.
CUT FABRIC: Cung ne fabrics such as stretch mesh and lace can be really dicult. Its like cung chion – lots of shiing! To
make it easier, use a temporary spray adhesive such as Odifs 505 to spray baste the main fabric and the lining fabric together prior
to cung. See photo below. You won’t permanently adhere them – the glue will wear o in a short amount of me and/or during
washing.
If you spray baste, I suggest cung and sewing within a few days because if not, the glue will wear o and what you did was just a
waste of me. For Barre, spray baste the self and the lining for the center front cups only. Leave the lining and the self for the side
cups and the back band NOT GLUED. You’ll see why later.
DIRECTION OF STRETCH: In a woven fabric, grainline indicates the direcon of the fabric that has the least amount of stretch. In
most cases, paerns are aligned with this line. In bra making, paerns are cut according to the direcon of greatest stretch (DOGS). So,
when looking at the paern for Noelle, lines with arrows indicate DOGS, not grainline.
To nd the DOGS on your fabric, pull lengthwise and crosswise. What has more stretch? On stretch fabrics, there is either a stretch in
one direcon, called a 2-way stretch, or a stretch in all direcons, called a 4-way stretch.
If you’re using a 2-way stretch fabric for your Barre, make sure that the DOGS lines on the paern align with the direcon of your
fabric that stretches MORE for both SELF and LINING. If you’re using a 4-way stretch, you can you disregard the lines and cut in any
direcon.
05: CUTTING +
DIRECTION OF STRETCH
BRALETTE
STEP 1: With right sides together, sew bust darts by folding dart in half and pinning in place along dart legs. Sew from
bottom edge to dart point. At dart point, sew off fabric and leave a long thread tail. Tie in a knot to secure. Be sure not to
pull the knot tight against the fabric as it will cause puckering.
STEP 2: With right sides together, sew front halter (bodice) to racerback at side seam using a straight stitch. Sew front
bottom band to back bottom band at side seam as well using a straight stitch. If using a fabric that doesn’t fray (i.e.
stretch mesh or stretch lace), you can leave seam allowances raw. You can also serge seam allowances if you have a serger.
STEP 3: Attach elastic at neckline and underarm. It doesn’t matter which order you attach, but I prefer sewing at neckline
first, then underarm.
With right side of fabric facing up, place 3/8” elastic on top so that it extends past fabric’s edge 1/8”. The picot edge
should face inward (towards the fabric) and the plush side should face up.
Sew along the picot edge with a zigzag stitch. Stitch width and length will vary from machine to machine, but a good
rule of thumb is stitch width should not exceed half the width of the elastic. Try to stitch as close as possible to picot
without going off the edge.
After you’ve sewn the first pass, flip elastic to the wrong side and sew the edge opposite the one you just sewed using
a zigzag stitch.
Elastic comes in different widths, quality and amounts of stretch. Some calculate the amount to pull (i.e. reducing the
length by 15%), but most of the time, I set elastic flat, meaning I do not pull elastic while sewing.
STEP 4: Sew bodice (front halter + racerback) to bottom band using a short zigzag stitch. Stitch width and length will vary
according to machine. To finish seam allowance:
Push seam allowances down
With wrong side of bra facing out, cover seam allowances with 3/8” picot/plush elastic and sew using a wide zigzag
Overlap elastic ½” at ends and trim close to stitching
STEP 5: Attach ½” elastic at bottom band the same way as it was done in step 3.
STEP 6: Loop ring around top racer back. Fold back and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (ap-
proximately 2mm stitch length).
STEP 7: Make and attach straps:
Cut two strips of strap elastic, each 15” long.
Feed one end of strap up through the bottom of one slider, then over the center bar and down through the other side.
It should look like a belt buckle, with one short end and one long end.
Fold the short side down and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (approximately 2mm stitch
length). Trim close to stitching.
Loop through ring at top racer back.
Weave long side up and over center bar of the slider just like in step 2.
Overlap strap and strap point ½” and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (approximately 2
mm stitch length). To prevent straps from shifting during sewing, use a temporary spray adhesive such as Odifs
06: SEWING
One of the best aspects of having this blog is being able to share what I’ve learned. It has been so much fun
and fullling so see everyone’s Madalynne me-mades. The Noelle can be worn as true lingerie, a layering
piece, or even a crop top? Its casual style makes it a great opon for yoga too! Just look at all the ways these
ladies are rocking their Noelle!
07: STYLE INSPIRATION
share your Noelle on Instagram - use hashtag #bramakingwithmadalynne
Did you know? Madalynne has 6 other lingerie paerns + 1 bodysuit paern
with Simplicity. Visit www.madalynne.com for more informaon and to shop the
paerns and sewing kits.
08: MORE MADALYNNE
{INSTAGRAM} @MMADALYNNE
{HASHTAG} #BRAMAKINGWITHMADALYNNE
{EMAIL} HELLO@MADALYNNE.COM