BRALETTE
STEP 1: With right sides together, sew bust darts by folding dart in half and pinning in place along dart legs. Sew from
bottom edge to dart point. At dart point, sew off fabric and leave a long thread tail. Tie in a knot to secure. Be sure not to
pull the knot tight against the fabric as it will cause puckering.
STEP 2: With right sides together, sew front halter (bodice) to racerback at side seam using a straight stitch. Sew front
bottom band to back bottom band at side seam as well using a straight stitch. If using a fabric that doesn’t fray (i.e.
stretch mesh or stretch lace), you can leave seam allowances raw. You can also serge seam allowances if you have a serger.
STEP 3: Attach elastic at neckline and underarm. It doesn’t matter which order you attach, but I prefer sewing at neckline
first, then underarm.
• With right side of fabric facing up, place 3/8” elastic on top so that it extends past fabric’s edge 1/8”. The picot edge
should face inward (towards the fabric) and the plush side should face up.
• Sew along the picot edge with a zigzag stitch. Stitch width and length will vary from machine to machine, but a good
rule of thumb is stitch width should not exceed half the width of the elastic. Try to stitch as close as possible to picot
without going off the edge.
• After you’ve sewn the first pass, flip elastic to the wrong side and sew the edge opposite the one you just sewed using
a zigzag stitch.
Elastic comes in different widths, quality and amounts of stretch. Some calculate the amount to pull (i.e. reducing the
length by 15%), but most of the time, I set elastic flat, meaning I do not pull elastic while sewing.
STEP 4: Sew bodice (front halter + racerback) to bottom band using a short zigzag stitch. Stitch width and length will vary
according to machine. To finish seam allowance:
• Push seam allowances down
• With wrong side of bra facing out, cover seam allowances with 3/8” picot/plush elastic and sew using a wide zigzag
• Overlap elastic ½” at ends and trim close to stitching
STEP 5: Attach ½” elastic at bottom band the same way as it was done in step 3.
STEP 6: Loop ring around top racer back. Fold back and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (ap-
proximately 2mm stitch length).
STEP 7: Make and attach straps:
• Cut two strips of strap elastic, each 15” long.
• Feed one end of strap up through the bottom of one slider, then over the center bar and down through the other side.
It should look like a belt buckle, with one short end and one long end.
• Fold the short side down and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (approximately 2mm stitch
length). Trim close to stitching.
• Loop through ring at top racer back.
• Weave long side up and over center bar of the slider just like in step 2.
• Overlap strap and strap point ½” and secure by sewing back and forth using a short straight stitch (approximately 2
mm stitch length). To prevent straps from shifting during sewing, use a temporary spray adhesive such as Odif’s
06: SEWING