Greece: Chic New Hotels in Paros

INSIDE  EXPLORING THE CYCLADES PRIOR TO COVID19 + U.S. HOTELS WITH PRIVATE VILLAS

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

Stylish design, delicious seafood, mesmerizing views and sunsoaked days at the center of the Aegean

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ast year, before the world was

upended by the coronavirus

outbreak, I took a trip to Greece,

speciﬁcally to the islands of the Cyclades.

At the time of writing, travelers from

the United States are still subject to

quarantine requirements on arrival in

Athens. However, the Greek Ministry

of Foreign Aﬀairs has announced that

JULY 2020 SINCE 1979

restrictions on international visitors

will be lifted progressively from July 1,

so it is conceivable that by the time you

read this, the country may once again

be open to Americans. So far, Greece has

escaped quite lightly from the pandemic,

with just over 3,000 infections. And as

approximately one in ﬁve Greek citizens

works in tourism, which brings in close

to $20 billion in revenue, the government

does not lack for incentives to chart a way

back to normality. Even if travel remains

problematic this year, next spring we

may be able to head back to the eastern

Mediterranean. (May and June have long

been my favorite months there.) For me,

life oﬀers few pleasures more intense than

that of sitting beneath a Greek quayside

Main pool at Parīlio Hotel,

Naoussa, Paros

ANDREW HARPER’S

2 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

ingly, it can boast relatively few hotels of

note, and, worse, many of the ones that

do exist are located on either Santorini or

Mykonos, islands that over recent years

have become badly overcrowded, haunted

by large cruise ships and plagued by the

prevailing obsession with Instagram.

Recently, however, there have been one

or two signs of change.

Paros lies at the center of the Aegean

Sea, 100 miles southeast of Athens.

Among the islands of the Cyclades, it is

increasingly the preferred second-home

destination of Greek tastemakers and

some of the country’s wealthiest families.

“Paros is a bit like Martha’s Vineyard and

Nantucket were in the 1970s,” a well-

known Greek architect once told me at a

dinner party in Athens. “So please don’t

write about it, because we like it just the

way it is.” Another guest added, “We

had a close call with notoriety when an

American writer stayed in 1958 and told

all of his friends about it, but then things

calmed down.” She was referring to the

late Truman Capote who came to Greece

to rest after he’d finished his novella

“Breakfast at Tiﬀany’s.” Capote loved

the sun, sea and simplicity of Paros, and

extolled the primal happiness he found

on the island in letters to his friends.

Sixty years later, Paros is in the

spotlight again, thanks to the opening

of several quietly luxurious hotels. And

a new generation of designers, crafts

people, chefs and entrepreneurs are also

giving the island an indigenous sophis-

tication, since they prize local traditions

and regional produce in their work.

Paros is more accessible than many

of the other Cycladic islands. ere are

regular 40-minute ﬂights from Athens,

as well as numerous ferries from Piraeus

(the port of Athens), which take around

four hours. On our recent visit, it was

nearly noon by the time we’d collected

our bags and rental car, so we headed to

a favorite taverna in the town of Aliki on

the southern coast for a seaside lunch.

Perched on rush-bottom chairs at the

water’s edge, we ate crisp Greek salads

followed by deep-fried baby squid,

grilled cuttleﬁsh and red mullet, accom-

panied by a carafe of dry white Parian

wine. Before long, the early wake-up

call in our Athens hotel was a dim and

receding memory.

awning, with a plate of grilled ﬁsh and

a bottle of cold white wine, gazing at

yachts anchored on a glassy expanse of

sea, beneath a sky that is cloudless and

improbably blue.

Despite being an extraordinarily

beautiful and hospitable country, with

no fewer than 227 inhabited islands and

a cultural history that is second to none,

Greece has long been a paradoxical place

for aﬄuent American travelers. Surpris-

MAZUR TRAVEL / ADOBE STOCK

SUMMER SENSES: LARS H. LAURSEN

‘Paros is a bit like Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket were in the 1970s,’ a well-known

Greek architect once told me at a dinner party in Athens. ‘So please don’t write about it,

because we like it just the way it is.’

“

ATHENS

CYCLADES

PELOPONNESE

NAXOS

MYKONOS

PAROS

SANTORINI

MILOS

SIROS

CRETE

TURKEY

GREECE

IOS

SIFNOS

SERIFOS

KYTHNOS

AEGEAN

SEA

MEDITERRANEAN

SEA

100 KM

100 MI

HYDRA

PORTO HELI

SPETSES

ANTIPAROS

SARONIC

ISLANDS

AGIOS NIKOLAOS

KEA

CYTHERA

Narrow streets of Parikia, Paros’ capital

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 3

From Aliki to Drios it was a pretty

15-minute drive to the 15-room adults-

only Calme Boutique Hotel, which is

located less than a half-mile from Chryssi

Akti (Golden Beach), the most famous

stretch of sand on the island and an estab-

lished favorite of wind and kite surfers.

On arrival, we found a contemporary

hotel faced with stone, set on a ridge with

a view across the sea to Drios. e staﬀ

were warm and welcoming, and we were

served freshly made lemonade before

being given a brief tour of the property

by a charming young Greek woman who

had learned her perfect English at college

in Boston. She explained that the hotel

had been designed by the Greek architect

Iossif Alighizakis, who is considered to

be a pioneer in contemporary Cycladic

architecture. Alighizakis’ style privileges

the use of local materials and traditional

architectural idioms, while making them

modern with cleaner lines and a cubist

aesthetic.

All the rooms are named for herbs that

grow locally, and we had been assigned to

“Lavender,” a junior suite with a private

plunge pool and a spacious sunny terrace.

e room itself was almost entirely white

and pleasantly monastic in its spareness,

with an extra-large bed, an overhead

ceiling fan and a small writing desk. e

bath lacked a tub — Paros suﬀers from a

shortage of water — but it was spacious

and well lit.

e next two days were delightful,

not least because the staﬀ were so eager

to please. Much of our time was spent

beside the large outdoor swimming

pool with spectacular views of the sea.

Occasionally, we would take one of the

hotel’s complimentary bicycles and head

off to one of the beaches nearby. The

contemporary Mediterranean food by

chef Iosif Sikianakis at the hotel’s Seven

Senses restaurant was outstanding, and

we feasted on dishes like mussels cooked

with ouzo and fennel, elvers in chile oil,

and mixed shellﬁsh linguine. We also

very much enjoyed the local wines that

the sommelier helped us choose for our

meals, especially the Moraitis Malagousia,

a crisp fresh Parian white that was ideal

with grilled ﬁsh. Overall, this is a delight-

fully intimate and tranquil hotel.

After an excellent Greek breakfast of

yogurt, honeycomb, ﬂaky cheese-and-

herb-ﬁlled pastries and soft-boiled eggs,

we checked out and headed for Lefkes, a

20-minute drive inland and the medieval

capital of Paros. Lefkes was once made

prosperous by the nearby quarries,

which produced the ﬁnest marble in the

world. Parian marble was known to the

ancient Greeks as “candlelight marble,”

because light penetrates to a depth of

almost an inch and a half, giving it the

lustrous glow. is explains why it was

used for some of the most famous statues

in history, including the Venus de Milo

and the Winged Victory of Samothrace

(both in the Louvre). Today, Lefkes itself

is a quiet and pretty village with steep

lanes shaded by mulberry trees. After

a visit to the Yria ceramics atelier in

nearby Kostos and having browsed the

many ceramics shops in Lefkes itself, we

MAZUR TRAVEL / ADOBE STOCK

SUMMER SENSES: LARS H. LAURSEN

Lavender suite and the bath of an Aloe suite at Calme Boutique Hotel, Drios

Pool Suite at Summer Senses, Piso Livadi

4 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

attractive scheme of cream, dove gray

and cerulean blue. e spacious room

had a queen bed, cool tile ﬂoors, a rag

rug, a sofa bed and a blond wood writing

desk, while the stylish bath came with a

shower and a single large sink on a stone

counter. French doors led to a private

balcony with cream canvas loungers and

a stunning view of the Aegean and Naxos.

e property has two excellent restau-

rants: Gaia Main Restaurant serves an

all-day menu that runs to dishes such as

tuna tartare with ginger and sesame oil,

lobster linguine with tomato and basil,

and grilled cuttleﬁsh with chive oil and

lime zest; while the gastronomically

ambitious Galazia Hytra, which is the

Paros sibling of the Michelin-starred

Hytra restaurant in Athens, oﬀers deli-

cious dishes like grilled bonito with

green beans, roe salad, sea fennel and

cherry tomatoes; sea bream with rock

samphire, tomato, olives and basil; and

grouper fricassee with wild greens, cele-

riac, chervil, dill, egg and lemon sauce.

Summer Senses has two huge outdoor

pools and an Anassa spa that oﬀers a

full range of treatments by well-trained

multilingual therapists. Several good

beaches are within walking distance.

Overall, this peaceful hotel is primarily

for those content to swim, snooze,

sunbathe and eat extremely well. As yet,

however, the service has not reached the

required standard.

• • • •

e ﬁnal stop on our Paros trip was

the glamorous and cosmopolitan village

of Naoussa, a Cycladic St. Tropez, with

had a succulent Greek lunch at Aranto,

a restaurant with a terrace that aﬀords

views to the channel between Paros and

the neighboring island of Naxos.

• • • •

From Lefkes, we headed back to the

east coast and the seaside village of Piso

Livadi. ere, the Summer Senses resort

opened in May 2019. At ﬁrst glance, the

property seemed rather austere, but this

will doubtless change as the bougainvillea

and orange trees become more estab-

lished. e young staﬀ were welcoming,

if unpolished, but this will surely change

with time, too; it was likely a challenge to

staﬀ a 100-room property on a Cycladic

island with a seasonal tourist trade.

We had reserved a Junior Suite With

Seaview, which turned out to have an

GERHARD ZWERGERSCHONER / GETTY IMAGES

We loved our stay at Parīlio and would gladly return to spend a week there, refining the art

of complete idleness and remaining resolutely incommunicado.

“

Top: Aerial view of Parīlio Hotel, Naoussa. Bottom row: Terrace Jacuzzi, sitting area and bedroom of a Uranus Suite at Parīlio Hotel.

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 5

ﬁne restaurants, stylish boutiques and

a spectacular Venetian castle, located

8 miles from Piso Livadi, on the northern

coast of the island.

More than any other new resort on

Paros, it is the 33-suite Parīlio Hotel,

which opened in July 2019, that has set

tongues wagging. e hotel was created

from an existing set of white sugar-cube

buildings situated a ﬁve minutes’ drive

to the west of Naoussa. e Parīlio is the

work of husband-and-wife team Kalia

Konstantinidou and Antonis Eliopoulos,

who are well known for their proper-

ties on Santorini (including the lovely

Istoria hotel).

e couple commissioned Athens-

based Interior Design Laboratorium to

create a visual signature for the Parīlio.

Working in a soothing palette of white,

gray, ochre and sienna, the firm has

successfully combined sophistication and

simplicity. Most of the wooden furniture

was made to order in local workshops, but

accessories like bedside tables from 101

Copenhagen, bespoke embroidered wall

hangings by the Marrakech brand LRNCE

and outdoor furniture from Vincent Van

Duysen all help to create a thoroughly

international atmosphere.

On arrival, the hotel makes a dramatic

ﬁrst impression — a reﬂection of the fact

that it is part of the Design Hotels group,

a pioneer of the boutique-hotel concept

when it was founded in Sausalito in

1993 — with its huge cross-shaped pool

and sensuously cool interior. All guest

rooms have private terraces, but our

430-square-foot Uranus Suite also came

with a Jacuzzi (Sun Suites oﬀer private

plunge pools). e suite’s beige porcelain

floor tiles had a pleasantly powdery

texture underfoot, and the French doors

leading to the terrace and windows were

ﬁtted with wooden shutters that closed

easily. The separate sitting room was

furnished with an overstuﬀed cinnamon-

colored sofa and a plump armchair. e

bath came with two square white basins

mounted on a counter, a rainfall shower

and locally made organic toiletries.

Aside from a ﬁtness center, equipped

with elliptical machines, stationary

GERHARD ZWERGERSCHONER / GETTY IMAGES

salad of grilled peaches and creamy goat

cheese, octopus with chickpea purée,

and freshly made orzo pasta with pork

and prunes.

We loved our stay at Parīlio and

would gladly return to spend a week

there, refining the art of complete

idleness and remaining resolutely

incommunicado. The Greek poet

Giorgos Seferis, who won the Nobel

Prize in Literature in 1963, described

Paros as “the loveliest of all the Greek

Islands,” and we have often been

inclined to agree. And at least for now,

Paros has been largely spared the cruise

ship hordes who invade islands such as

Mykonos and Santorini.

bikes, treadmills and rowing machines

(yoga classes can be arranged at the

front desk), there is a small but attractive

Asian spa using products by the British

organic brand Ila. Otherwise, the most

notable amenities of this property are its

lively pool bar, which serves imaginative

Aegean cocktails, and Mr. E, the excellent

restaurant helmed by well-known chef

Alexandros Tsiotinis, the owner of the

CTC restaurant in Athens, who has

worked with luminaries such as Alain

Passard, Hélène Darroze, Eric Frechon

and Pascal Barbot. His market-driven

“New Greek” menu uses the freshest

local produce and seafood. Highlights of

one notably delicious dinner included a

Traditional white Cycladic architecture, Naoussa

CALME BOUTIQUE HOTEL 90

LIKE Serene and private, this place is ideal for couples; the staff are delightful; the food is surprisingly

good. DISLIKE The molded plastic sun beds on private terraces are uncomfortable. The hotel needs more

bicycles for its guest count. GOOD TO KNOW If you’re planning to spend a day at Chryssi Akti beach, sun

loungers and umbrellas are available for rental, but you should go early before they sell out. Lowest Rate:

Premier Sea View Room, $400; Editor’s Choice: Junior Sea View Room, $500 (minimum stay may apply).

Chryssi Akti, Drios. (30) 228-402-8695.

SUMMER SENSES 89

LIKE Spacious, comfortable rooms; two beautiful pools; very good food. DISLIKE Hidden speakers

playing bird and wave sounds near the pool; the service does not meet a luxury standard. GOOD TO KNOW

The lively bars and nightlife of Pounda Beach are nearby for those who feel so inclined. Lowest Rate: Deluxe

Room With Garden View, $200; Editor’s Choice: Junior Suite With Seaview, $340. Pounda Beach, Marpissa.

Tel. (30) 228-409-3000.

PARĪLIO HOTEL 92

LIKE Stylishly decorated and very comfortable rooms; the dramatic main swimming pool; the prompt and

efficient room service — rare at many hotels in the Greek islands. DISLIKE The terrace around the pool is

too small; the staff are cordial but not always warm. GOOD TO KNOW Lunch is served at the hotel, but it’s

a lot more fun to make the 20-minute walk to beautiful Kolymbithres Beach for a barefoot meal at Taverna

Anemos or Taverna Kolymbithres, both of which serve excellent salads and grilled fish. Lowest Rate: Aurora

Suite, $270; Editor’s Choice: Uranus Suite, $500. Kolymbithres, Naoussa. Tel. (30) 228-405-1000.

Prices quoted reflect average mid-high season rates (including taxes) and are subject to change.

6 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

Favorite Paros Restaurants

are farmed organically. (Interest-

ingly, Paros was never affected

by the phylloxera epidemic that

afflicted European vineyards

during the 19th century. Hence,

instead of having been grafted,

Parian vines grow on original root-

stocks, many of which are very

old.) Moraitis wines are served

at most of the best restaurants

in Paros, and you can also visit

the winery to do a tasting. Two

bottles worth bringing home are

the Malvasia Paros 4 Years Aged,

a white that was awarded a rating

of 93 by Robert Parker, and the

Amma, a sweet red that won a 90

rating from Parker.

Traditional Greek cooking

remains popular with residents

and foreign visitors alike, but the

island’s dining scene has never

been more diverse. Paros now

has several outstanding contem-

porary Greek restaurants, a good

sushi bar and a variety of excel-

lent modern European restau-

rants, too. Here is a selection of

our favorites.

Mediterraneo Taverna

Ouzerie

This small-plates seafood

restaurant in Naoussa draws

a stylish international crowd

who love its harborside location

and impeccably fresh mezzes.

Recommended dishes include

marinated anchovies, pasta with

shellfish sauce, and grilled rock

lobster. Naoussa Marína, Naoussa.

Tel. (30) 228-405-3176.

Les Amis

This stylish bistrot à vins serves

a contemporary European menu.

The wine list is outstanding, and

the balcony overlooking Naoussa

is a great place for a meal outside

on a mild evening. Expect dishes

like beef carpaccio with white

truffle oil, homemade pappardelle

with beef, sea bass with celeriac

purée, and chicken marinated

with honey and chiles. Kalispera,

Naoussa. Tel. (30) 228-405-1100.

Restaurant Sigi Ikthios

The name of this restaurant

means “the Silence of the Fish,”

and that tells you everything you

need to know about the menu,

which features imaginatively

cooked local seafood. Have a

pre-dinner drink at the adjacent

Salty Bar, and then step inside

the restaurant to inspect the catch

of the day displayed on ice. Don’t

miss the braised mussels or tuna

steak if they are available. Naoussa

Limáni, Naoussa. Tel. (30) 228-

405-2639.

Siparos

This casually elegant restaurant

with beautiful views over Santa

Maria Beach is not only a special-

occasion destination for visitors

but a favorite of the Parians

themselves. The menu leads

off with a variety of delicious

appetizers meant for sharing,

including fried feta cheese

doughnuts with sun-dried

tomatoes, Parian-style chickpeas

with rosemary, and beet skordalia

with garlic and olive oil. It then

segues to superlative grilled fish.

Santa Maria Beach, Naoussa.

Tel. (30) 228-405-2785.

Soso

Located in a quiet cobbled

alleyway, this small charming

contemporary take on the

traditional Greek taverna offers

dishes like haloumi cheese with

honey, chicken fillet with dried

figs, smoked cheese and almonds,

and roast lamb shank with a lemon

sauce. Naoussa Limáni, Naoussa.

Tel. (30) 697-487-8281.

Restaurant Anna

Hearty traditional Greek cooking,

including dishes like angináres

alá políta (artichoke stew with

carrots), katsíki lemonáto

(goat in lemon sauce) and arní

dfkljsdl;fkjds

he food of Paros is

healthy and flavorful.

Octopus, squid and

rock lobster are caught

on the craggier parts of the island’s

shoreline, while red mullet, mack-

erel, John Dory and sea bass are

landed locally, too. As well as

being grilled and fried, fish are

also made into rich savory kaka-

via (fisherman’s soup). Two local

preparations to look for are gouna,

salted sun-dried fish, and sala-

touri, a salad of skate dressed with

olive oil, lemon and fresh herbs.

Horta vrasta, boiled wild greens,

usually including dandelion and

amaranth, is served with olive oil

and is absolutely delicious and full

of vitamins. Lamb and pork are the

most common meats. For adven-

turous diners, a local delicacy are

karavoles (giant snails), which

can be prepared mpourmporistoi

(meaning boiled in tomato sauce

with garlic), boubouristi (lightly

fried with rosemary) or stifado

(stewed with scallions). In addi-

tion to the omnipresent feta — the

best feta actually comes from the

island of Lesbos — Parian cheeses

include xinomizithra (soft, creamy

whey cheese made from sheep’s

or goat’s milk), kefalotyri (a hard,

salty white cheese) and kopanisti

(a spicy spreadable cheese with

an intense flavor achieved by

repeated kneadings during the

ripening process). Kopanisti is

often served with chopped toma-

toes and olive oil atop dry bread

in a dish called mostra.

The best local wines come

from the Moraitis Winery, which

is located just outside of Naoussa

on the northern coast of the island

and produces some 300,000 bot-

tles a year. The Moraitis family has

been making wine on Paros for

more than a century and today

cultivates some 70 acres of vines

that are planted with a number of

varieties, including Assyrtiko, Mal-

agousia and Monemvasia. Their

vineyards are located in different

locations on the island, and many

LES AMIS: MHTSIAN

Pork chops with capers at Les Amis, Naoussa

NAXOS: M CARMEN BELLO ABAD / EYEEM / GETTY IMAGES

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 7

ne of the great pleasures of the Cyclades

is being able to island hop, either during

the course of a multi-island itinerary or on

day trips. Ferries leave regularly and while they are

scarcely the last word in luxury, sitting on the top

deck in the sunshine watching the Aegean slide past

is invariably a delightful experience. From Paros,

it is possible to visit Siros, Ios and Sifnos, as well

as popular islands like Mykonos and Delos, all of

which are less than two hours away. On our recent

trip, however, we opted to visit the two nearest

islands: Antiparos and Naxos.

Antiparos

Paros’ sister island is located less than a mile off

of Paros’ western coast and is reached by regular

seven-minute ferries from the port of Pounta and

more infrequent ones from Parikia. Seven miles

long and 3 miles wide, Antiparos has a population

of around 1,200 and, other than in August, it is

peaceful and low key. This is doubtless the reason

for its popularity with movie stars — Tom Hanks

owns a house here; Matthew McConaughey and

Woody Harrelson are among the A-list renters — as

well as European celebrities who prefer to be out

of the public eye while on vacation.

The best way to discover Antiparos is to hire a

motor scooter when you arrive so you can take in the

island’s pretty, hilly landscapes and easily get to one

of its unspoiled beaches. Soros Beach is particularly

recommended, because it’s rarely crowded and

has comfortable sun beds and umbrellas for rent,

along with a simple restaurant.

The main attraction of the island is a huge

230-foot-deep cavern, the Cave of Antiparos, filled

with stalactites and stalagmites, which has been

known since antiquity. Until it was strictly forbidden,

visitors, including the poet Byron and King Otto

of Greece, would carve their names on the walls.

Antiparos is known as the octopus capital of

Greece and many seafood lovers come just to

have lunch at Captain Pipinos, a simple taverna

overlooking the sea, with a view to the neighboring

island of Despotiko. Everything you eat here was

in the Aegean just a few hours earlier, so the fish,

shellfish and crustaceans — rock lobster is another

Antiparos specialty — are incredibly fresh.

Naxos

A 45-minute ferry ride from Paros, Naxos is the

largest of the Cyclades — 20 miles from north to

south — with a population of nearly 20,000. It is also

the greenest of the islands, rising to an elevation of

3,291 feet at the summit of Mount Zeus.

Due to the island’s size, the best way to spend a

day here is with a private guide and driver. Friends in

Athens recommended the Naxos Discovery Private

Guided Tours company, run by Nicolas Lagiere,

an amiable bilingual young Frenchman who lives

in Naxos. Every itinerary is customized. Since we

wanted a general introduction to the island and

also to see some of its unspoiled interior, Lagiere

drew up an itinerary that focused on archaeological

sites, including temples of Demeter and Apollo,

Byzantine churches — we especially liked the

Panagia Protothroni, with its seventh-century

frescoes — and several charming villages, notably

Apeiranthos and Halki.

It was a fascinating day, from which we returned

with two perfect souvenirs — a bottle of Kitron, a

liqueur made from locally grown citrons by the

island’s Vallindras Distillery, and a flask of the

excellent extra-virgin olive oil produced by the

Cycladi olive press.

mageireméno se sáltsa lemonioú

me dentrolívano (lamb cooked in

lemon sauce with rosemary), make

this casual restaurant popular

with both locals and expats. It

is located a short walk from the

Calme Boutique Hotel. Hotel Ivi,

Drios. Tel. (30) 228-404-1015.

Aranto

This relaxed contemporary Greek

restaurant with stunning views

over the village of Lefkes is an ideal

address for lunch. Try simple but

beautifully prepared dishes like

stuffed zucchini, grilled sausage

with feta, and chicken souvlaki.

Eparchiaki Odos Parikias-

Marpissas, Lefkes. Tel. (30)

228-404-4070.

Ballo

When you’ve had your fill of Greek

food, head for this surprisingly

good sushi bar. Start with sea

bream ceviche with sea urchin

marinated in yuzu oil with

sea salt, and then go for the

nigiri or a specialty roll like the

Ballo which is made with crab,

avocado, cucumber, salmon, spicy

mayonnaise and tobiko. Parikia

Coastal Road, Parikia. Tel. (30)

228-402-8238.

Taverna Il Balcone

This simple open-air seaside

restaurant, with a large shaded

terrace, serves locally landed

seafood at unbeatable prices,

including octopus, squid, sea

bream and mackerel. And even

though it’s alarmingly inexpensive,

the house white wine is very

drinkable. Piso Aliki Beach, Aliki.

Tel. (30) 228-409-1512.

LES AMIS: MHTSIAN

Blissful Day Trips

Greek salad at Taverna Il Balcone, Aliki

The “Portara,” the lintel of the Temple

of Apollo, erected by Lygdamis, the ruler

of Naxos, in the sixth century BC.

NAXOS: M CARMEN BELLO ABAD / EYEEM / GETTY IMAGES

8 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

A Home Away From Home

Peace, privacy and seclusion in the reliable Greek sunshine

enting a house on one of the

Greek islands has long been

a classic spring and summer

escape for Americans, as well as for

northern Europeans. An Arcadian land-

scape of olive groves and lemon trees,

limpid sea, healthy food, friendly local

people and reliably perfect weather all

contribute to the allure. And in the time

of coronavirus, a self-contained vaca-

tion with family or friends has obvious

appeal. e choice is dizzying, both in

the number of islands and the types of

property available. However, starting

points are provided by two of our recom-

mended hotels — Amanzoe and Elounda

Mare — both of which oﬀer glamorous

villas of varying sizes.

Amanzoe is located two hours by car

southwest of Athens, on the Pelopon-

nese peninsula, close to the fashionable

yachting town of Porto Heli. (Helicopter

transfers are available.) e exceptionally

picturesque islands of Spetses and Hydra

are within easy reach.

In a stunning hilltop location over-

looking a cobalt-blue bay backed by

craggy mountains, Amanzoe comprises

38 freestanding Pavilions with private

plunge pools, designed by American

architect Ed Tuttle. e resort also oﬀers

fully serviced one- to nine-bedroom

Villas, with views over olive groves to

From left: Elounda Mare Minoan Royalty Villa, Crete; view from one of the Acron Villas, Paros

One-bedroom villa

at Amanzoe on the

Peloponnese

AMANZOE: COURTESY OF AMAN ACRON VILLA: LAURENT FABRE

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 9

the Mediterranean. For example, a four-

bedroom Villa comes with traditional dry

stone-clad walls, sand-colored marble

ﬂoors, a 66-foot heated swimming pool,

a private chef and a dedicated host. As

well as a spacious living and dining area,

the property oﬀers a spa room, a media

center and an expansive terrace.

Elounda Mare is located on the north

coast of Crete, a long, narrow island

(about 165 miles from west to east), which

is dominated by a spine of dramatic

mountains that rise to 8,000-foot Mount

Ida. e resort overlooks scenic Mira-

bello Bay near the busy resort town of

Agios Nikolaos. As well as 46 rooms in

the main building, there are 36 one- to

three-bedroom bungalows with private

saltwater pools, set amid lush gardens

that extend down to the sea. In addition,

one- to two-bedroom Minoan Royalty

Villas With Private Pools, constructed

from local wood and stone, oﬀer up to

1,600 square feet of indoor space, marble

baths with steam showers and private

ﬁtness areas.

To ﬁnd luxury villas in Greece, Andrew

Harper Travel works with Abercrombie

& Kent Villas, chieﬂy for properties in

Corfu, Crete, Mykonos and Santorini, and

Villas of Distinction, which has a number

of houses in Santorini. Of course, suit-

able villas on a wider variety of islands,

including Paros and Antiparos, can also

be located by our Travel Oﬃce staﬀ.

During our trip to Paros we brieﬂy

rented one of the 24 new Acron Villas,

located just ﬁve minutes from the Parīlio

Hotel. Our “Turquoise 2-Bedroom

Villa Seaview Private Pool” had a fully

equipped kitchen, a pleasant living area

with a white-cotton upholstered sofa, a

dining table for eight and a woodburning

ﬁreplace. Two comfortable whitewashed

bedrooms came with queen-size beds.

Other Acron villas have three, four or ﬁve

bedrooms. All come with private pools

and enjoy a tranquil setting just outside

of charming Naoussa, with its many

restaurants, bars and shops. More attrac-

tive and comfortable than luxurious, they

are an excellent and good-value option

for families or groups of friends.

ALL YACHTS WORLDWIDE

reece has around 6,000 islands — though the precise number depends on when an

island becomes a mere islet or just a large rock — of which only 227 are inhabited.

This means that there are hundreds of secluded coves and beaches, accessible only

to those with a private yacht. Having your own boat also enables you to visit small pictur-

esque ports, far from cruise ships and tourist crowds. Of course, the coronavirus pandemic

has also provided an incentive to charter a yacht, as it enables travelers to enjoy the security

of a self-contained environment.

Personally, I prefer to explore the Aegean archipelago aboard a sailboat, imagining a

distant kinship with the wanderings of Odysseus, though I realize that I am in a minority.

Motor yachts are invariably more spacious and comfortable, as well as not being subject to

the vagaries of the wind, especially the meltemi, which, in July and August, is sometimes

sufficiently strong to confine sailors to port for several days at a time.

Andrew Harper Travel works with longstanding partner All Yachts Worldwide, based

in Fort Lauderdale, which has an extensive portfolio of vessels operating out of Piraeus,

the port of Athens. These range from Zen, an 88-foot motor yacht with a crew of five and

accommodations for nine passengers, and Souraya, a 125-foot vessel with a crew of eight

and cabins for 12 guests, to impressive craft such as Serenity, a 236-foot superyacht with

a crew of 30 and room for 28 travelers. All such vessels come with tenders, Jet Skis, water

skis, kayaks, paddleboards, wakeboards and snorkeling equipment.

Companies are now required to thoroughly disinfect boats between charters in order

to obtain a certificate of decontamination. As you would expect, enhanced daily cleaning

procedures have been put in place, and provisions are handled with extreme care in order

to safeguard the health of those on board.

From Piraeus, it takes only an hour or so to reach the Saronic Islands — Salamis, Aegina,

Agistri and Poros — while the charming Peloponnesian islands of Hydra and Spetses are just

a little farther to the south. However, many visitors to Greece opt for a weeklong itinerary

among the Cyclades, a journey that will likely take them to around 10 islands. Some of these

are crowded in high season and offer nightlife calculated to appeal to a younger crowd

(Mykonos, Ios and Santorini), while others are peaceful and unspoiled (Sifnos, Serifos and

Kythnos). Longer trips, of two weeks or more, may well include time spent cruising among the

islands of the Dodecanese, such as Patmos, Kos, Leros, Tilos and Symi, which extend from

close to the shore of Turkey to Karpathos, a remote island off the northeast coast of Crete.

Greece Yacht Charter

Souraya, with room

for 12 passengers

AMANZOE: COURTESY OF AMAN ACRON VILLA: LAURENT FABRE

10 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

Escape to Private Villas and Residences

at Recommended Hotels in the U.S.

fter the loosening of coronavirus restrictions we have

begun to dream of new adventures. However, we are

shell-shocked travelers and our expectations and

requirements have shifted. When considering hotels, clean-

liness has become paramount and personal space is crucial.

e wish to reunite with families and friends, as well as to

be outdoors in wide-open spaces, will doubtless lead many

vacationers to book self-contained private villas or homes in

more remote locations. Some of our recommended hotels oﬀer

just these types of accommodations, places where guests can

stay in comfort and semi-isolation. Many provide kitchens or

kitchenettes, and staﬀ can stock pantries and fridges prior to

arrival. Private chefs can often be engaged. Here are 20 that

provide perfect escapes.

EAST

The Lodge at Glendorn

Bradford, Pennsylvania

Nestled within a 1,500-acre wooded

estate, a little over three hours’ drive

northeast of Pittsburgh and six hours west

of New York, this secluded and relaxing

resort was originally a family retreat. It

now oﬀers guests both independence and

privacy. Of the 16 guest lodgings, over half

are housed within stand-alone cabins.

John’s Cabin, comprising four bedrooms

and a kitchenette, is appealing for fami-

lies as it is closer to the central area

where kids’ activities are hosted. Forest

Hideout is especially remote — guests

require a vehicle to transport them down

to the main lodge — while families or

friends traveling together should consider

the four-bedroom Guesthouse over-

looking Skipper Lake or the Loft, which

includes a stove, a wet bar, a woodburning

ﬁreplace, billiards table and a screened-

in porch. Activities include hiking

and biking on the 18 miles of trails

surrounding the lodge, plus ﬂy-ﬁshing,

kayaking and paddleboarding.

Tw in Fa r ms

Barnard, Vermont

Set amid 300 acres of wildﬂower meadows

in an unspoiled valley in central Vermont,

two-and-a-half hours northwest of

Boston, this serene retreat encompasses

10 freestanding cottages, some with stone

hot tubs and panoramic ﬂoor-to-ceiling

windows. Particularly appropriate at the

present time, the Farmhouse at Copper

Hill comprises four glamorous suites and

can be taken in its entirety by a family

or private group. is exclusive lodging,

winner of the 2010 Gold Medal of the

American Institute of Architects, has

rooms connected by a handsome lounge

and tranquil library; the rooms share

a large hot tub. e hotel is renowned

for its superb farm-to-table culinary

program, with diners forgoing menus and

entrusting the chef to create dishes based

on their stated preferences. ough the

Farmhouse at Copper Hill

at Twin Farms, Vermont

BLACKBERRY FARM: BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 11

Farmhouse lacks a kitchen, the gourmet

meals can be served in your suite. Boxed

lunches are available for those who are out

and about, cycling, hiking or ﬂy-ﬁshing.

SOUTH

Blackberry Farm

& Blackberry Mountain

Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee

A longstanding member favorite, family-

owned Blackberry Farm is situated on

a 4,200-acre estate bordering Great

Smoky Mountains National Park. In years

past, this has been a resort at which the

quality of the restaurants has been one

of the primary attractions. During these

challenging times, the hotel can oﬀer

private chefs and culinary experiences

within the kitchens and dining rooms

of the estate’s six three- to ﬁve-bedroom

houses. ese retreats are ideal for multi-

generational family vacations, as many

come with bunk rooms and living spaces

stocked with a wide array of games.

Private farm tours and carriage rides are

oﬀered, as well as ﬂy-ﬁshing, hiking and

horseback-riding excursions. At Black-

berry Mountain, the younger sibling of

Blackberry Farm, the emphasis is on

exercise and wellness, including hikes

along 25 miles of private trails. ere,

three expansive multibedroom Mountain

Homes include well-equipped kitchens

and full-size washers and dryers, plus

indoor and outdoor dining areas.

Goodstone Inn

& Restaurant

Middleburg, Virginia

is charming country inn, located about

80 miles west of Baltimore, is set on a

265-acre estate with a working farm.

The property’s five outlying cottages

offer tranquil self-contained worlds

with spacious kitchens, large dining

tables and cozy living rooms. Goodstone

Market, an on-site drive-thru grocery

service, allows guests to stock their

pantries and refrigerators. ere is also

a regularly changing “Good To-Go”

menu that oﬀers French-inspired meals

employing at least one ingredient grown

on the farm. Children can roam the

gardens and visit some of the resident

animals, including llamas. Private guided

bird-watching and horseback-riding

outings can be arranged, and the estate

is crisscrossed with a wide network of

hiking and biking trails.

The Lodge on

Little St. Simons Island

Little St. Simons Island, Georgia

Surrounded by the unspoiled 11,000-acre

private barrier island of Little St. Simons,

this serene retreat oﬀers 16 guest lodg-

ings in an original hunting lodge, plus

ﬁve one- to four-bedroom houses and

cottages. For example, two-bedroom

Michael Cottage provides a kitchen-

ette, washer/dryer and screened patio,

while three-bedroom Helen House has

a kitchen, screened porch and court-

yard. e island is a destination unto

itself. Located on the Atlantic Flyway, its

ecosystem supports a wealth of wildlife,

including over 300 species of birds. Walks

along 7 miles of peaceful beaches are led

by a staﬀ of resident naturalists. Boating

and ﬁshing are also available.

MIDWEST

Canoe Bay

Chetek, Wisconsin

Set amid 300 acres of tranquil lakeside

woodlands, two hours east of Minne-

apolis, this adults-only hideaway (no

guests under the age of 21) is the perfect

place to get back to nature. e 27 accom-

modations are spread around the estate in

20 distinctive structures. All stand-alone

Signature Cottages overlook the water,

but Hilltop is the most magniﬁcent of

all, with a stylish living room, a Finnish

sauna, a kitchenette, an elliptical trainer

and, for those working remotely, a formal

study. e Edgewood Villa is suitable for

two couples traveling together. Oﬀering

sweeping vistas of the lake and a private

nature preserve, this sanctuary is the

From left: The Bull Barn Cottage at Goodstone Inn & Restaurant, Virginia; the Farm House at Blackberry Farm, Tennessee

BLACKBERRY FARM: BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY

12 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

resort’s only lodging with two bedrooms.

All meals can be delivered, to be enjoyed

at your cottage’s private dining table.

Hiking, canoeing and fishing are all

within easy reach.

ROCKIES

Amangani

Jackson, Wyoming

Situated atop the 7,000-foot East Gros

Ventre Butte and just 20 minutes from

Grand Teton National Park, this stylish

resort oﬀers sensational mountain views

and a virtually endless list of year-round

outdoor activities and wildlife experi-

ences. As well as 40 guest suites housed

within a low-proﬁle sandstone structure,

the resort oﬀers four- to six-bedroom

homes. Each comes with a well-equipped

kitchen, an expansive terrace with a gas

grill and several lounge areas. e East

Tatanka Home is augmented by a workout

studio and the Sena Home by a gym and

hot tub. Perfect for extended stays, these

self-contained properties oﬀer guests an

ideal setting in which to enjoy a range of

outdoor pursuits including horseback

riding, hiking and skiing.

The Broadmoor

Fly Fishing Camp

Lake George, Colorado

is intimate Orvis-endorsed ﬂy-ﬁshing

retreat is situated along a private 5-mile

stretch of the Tarryall River, at an eleva-

tion of 9,000 feet. All seven lodgings are

housed within elegantly styled cabins

that date back to the 1920s. Each is a

private oasis, with a sense of exclusivity,

serenity and privacy. While ﬂy-ﬁshing

is the primary attraction, hiking and

horseback-riding excursions through the

Lost Creek Wilderness are also memo-

rable. Though convivial family-style

dinners have always been a highlight

at this retreat, private dining services

are oﬀered in your cabin or on a terrace

overlooking the mountains.

The Ranch

at Rock Creek

Philipsburg, Montana

Surrounded by 6,600 acres in southwest

Montana, this lavish guest ranch, just

90 minutes south of Missoula, takes its

name from a blue-ribbon trout stream

that ﬂows out of the wilderness along

the Continental Divide. ere are several

accommodation types, including Granite

Lodge rooms and creekside wood-and-

canvas cabins warmed by gas ﬁreplaces. A

remodeled 19th-century barn with three

bedrooms would be ideal for a family.

Wilderness Estate vacation home at The Resort at Paws Up, Montana

Sena Home at Amangani, Wyoming

THE RESORT AT PAWS UP: PIETER DE LIAGRE BÖHL AMANGANI: COURTESY OF AMAN

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 13

In addition, the ranch has seven private

homes decorated in a Western style, with

all-inclusive dining and housekeeping

services. Maximum occupancy ranges

between two and 12 guests. Amenities

may include kitchens, laundry facili-

ties, private cedar saunas and hot tubs.

e 2,336-square-foot Ponderosa ranch

house is especially discreet and serene,

and comes with three bedrooms, a full

kitchen, living room and dining area,

two porches, two woodburning ﬁreplaces

and three claw-foot bathtubs.

The Resort at Paws Up

Greenough, Montana

is impressive resort is situated on a

37,000-acre working cattle ranch in

Montana’s Blackfoot Valley, a 30-minute

drive east of Missoula. Most of the

property’s 28 one- to four-bedroom

vacation homes, screened from one

another by tall trees, boast private decks

with hot tubs, living rooms with stone

ﬁreplaces and kitchens. Personal vehicles

are provided for on-ranch use. Provisions

can be ordered in advance, and in-home

dining is available. e resort’s pristine

setting oﬀers outdoor summer activities

such as horseback riding, canoeing,

sporting clays and fly-fishing on the

Blackfoot, Bitterroot and Missouri rivers;

skiing, dog-sledding and ice skating are

available in winter.

Sundance

Mountain Resort

Sundance, Utah

is eco-friendly resort owned by actor

Robert Redford is an exceptionally

peaceful wilderness retreat an hour

southeast of Salt Lake City. e property’s

13 elegantly rustic Mountain Homes come

with full kitchens, large living spaces

and separate dining areas. The most

lavish of these lodgings, such as Cirque

Crest and Wildﬂower, also oﬀer private

hot tubs. ree-story Mountain Spring,

the largest accommodation, comprising

seven bedrooms, lounge areas, a gym and

a billiards room, houses a maximum of

15 guests and is ideal for large groups or

multigenerational family vacations. Every

outdoor pursuit imaginable is oﬀered.

is is a place to breathe in fresh mountain

air, relax and disconnect.

SOUTHWEST

The Inn at Dos Brisas

Washington, Texas

About 90 minutes northwest of Houston,

at the edge of the rolling Texas Hill

Country, this serene Spanish Colonial-

style property is surrounded by a 313-acre

ranch. The 800-square-foot duplex

Casitas can be joined together for fami-

lies or couples traveling together. ese

come with kitchenettes; room service is

available. e property’s 1,750-square-

foot Haciendas feature cathedral ceil-

ings, antique furniture and French oak

ﬂoors. Both the bedroom and living room

have ﬁreplaces; other amenities include

heated plunge pools, patios and enclosed

porches. Personal golf carts allow guests

full independence to explore the estate

and to make trips to the stables where

riding lessons, carriage tours and trail

rides are available.

Miraval Arizona

Tucson, Arizona

is adults-only spa resort is located 50

minutes from Tucson in the Santa Cata-

lina foothills. In addition to the main

property, e Retreat encompasses 22

residences, all with private entrances,

patios with reﬂection ponds, large living

areas and pools or hot tubs; some are

Paws Up vacation homes

are screened by tall trees.

Personal vehicles are

provided for on-ranch use.

Provisions can be ordered

in advance, and in-home

dining is available.

“

Living room and kitchen of Mountain Homes at Sundance Mountain Resort, Utah

THE RESORT AT PAWS UP: PIETER DE LIAGRE BÖHL AMANGANI: COURTESY OF AMAN

14 ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020

augmented by full gourmet kitchens

and laundry rooms. ough the Miraval

brand is renowned for its comprehensive

spa facilities, this property can arrange a

multitude of activities that do not involve

enclosed spaces and human contact.

Hiking, climbing and horseback riding

are available, and when staying in the

residences, in-room activities, including

culinary experiences and music lessons,

are oﬀered.

Vermejo Park Ranch

Raton, New Mexico

Owned by media mogul Ted Turner, this

550,000-acre ranch is located about

100 miles northeast of Taos. For ulti-

mate privacy, it is possible to rent out

the magniﬁcent Casa Grande mansion

adjacent to the main lodge. With seven

supremely comfortable bedrooms —

including Turner’s own master suite

— and sumptuous public areas inclusive

of a ballroom with a grand piano and a

billiards room, it is the perfect setting for

a family reunion or group get-together.

Guests can be completely self-suﬃcient

as the mansion has its own kitchen. Also

ideal for family gatherings is the new

10-room Turner House on the main estate

or the remote eight-bedroom Costilla

Fishing Lodge located at an elevation of

10,000 feet. ough the ranch is primarily

a shooting and fishing destination,

horseback-riding outings and safari tours

are easily arranged.

WEST

Bernardus Lodge & Spa

Carmel Valley, California

is distinctive resort in the peaceful

Carmel Valley is set amid 28 acres of

oak-covered hills with a backdrop of

the Santa Lucia Mountains. Over the

years, the estate winery and monthly

culinary events, as well as the lavish

lodgings and spa, have drawn guests to

this bucolic estate. Two 2,100-square-

foot two-bedroom villas — Villa Sol

and Villa Carmelo — come with large

terraces with outdoor fire pits and

12-person dining tables. e Vintner’s

Suite can be configured as either a

one-bedroom or two-bedroom accom-

modation complete with a professional

kitchen and full-size appliances, seating

for up to 10, a ﬁreplace and an outdoor

terrace. is suite is ideal for families or

couples traveling together. River Beach,

a renowned bird sanctuary overlooking

Point Lobos, is just minutes away from

the property, and surfing, fishing,

whale-watching, mountain climbing and

hiking are all available nearby.

Château du Sureau

Oakhurst, California

Perched on a knoll above the small Sierra

town of Oakhurst, near the southern

entrance of Yosemite, this Provençal-

style manor feels blissfully removed.

e 10 rooms in the main auberge are

charming, but it is the remarkable Villa

du Sureau that is of particular interest

at the present time. A gated entrance

admits guests to this 2,000-square-foot

manor, cloistered within a lush garden.

The villa comprises two bedrooms, a

kitchenette, a library and an outdoor

Roman spa; a personal butler is at your

service. Appointed with antiques and

original artwork, this hideaway exudes

Old World elegance. Hiking and biking

trails abound nearby, but this is really a

place intended for complete relaxation.

The Inn at

Newport Ranch

Fort Bragg, California

is distinctive property is set on 2,000

private acres of stunning coastal land

in Fort Bragg, just 30 minutes north of

Mendocino. Rooms in the main inn oﬀer

reﬁned creature comforts, but we recom-

mend the spacious suites in the adjacent

Redwood House, which provide all the

amenities necessary to allow guests

to be self-sufficient. Supported by 24

redwood trunks, this sea-facing struc-

ture comprises three accommodations,

each boasting a hot tub, full kitchen and

oceanfront deck with a barbecue grill.

ough each suite is self-contained, they

share access to a sauna and game room

within the house, so it is best to rent the

entire building. Beach walks and hiking

excursions through the lush Angelo Coast

Range Reserve can be enjoyed nearby.

Post Ranch Inn

Big Sur, California

Set high above the Paciﬁc Ocean in Big

Sur, this peerless coastal resort is ﬁrst

and foremost about tranquility. ere

are no alarm clocks or televisions, and

guests under age 18 are not permitted.

Great room of a residence at The Retreat, part of Miraval Arizona

COSTILLA FISHING LODGE: JACK RICHMOND

POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD

ANDREW HARPER’S HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2020 15

All lodgings are refuges from the world,

but the property’s two private houses

are perfect places to hide away. With

expansive living rooms, woodburning

fireplaces, fully equipped kitchens,

spacious dining areas, patios with hot

tubs and backyards oﬀering spellbinding

ocean views, these homes are truly

spectacular. Surrounded by nothing but

nature, guests can step outdoors and hit

the nearby trails. Scuba diving, hiking

expeditions and bird-watching are also

available, but you’ll probably just want

to stay at your residence, reading and

lounging during the day and stargazing

from your patio at night.

Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge

Gold Beach, Oregon

Set in woodlands overlooking the majestic

Rogue River, this family-owned hide-

away is 7 miles inland from the town of

Gold Beach and about an hour north of

the California border. In addition to ﬁve

rooms and three River Suites, Tu Tu’ Tun

Lodge oﬀers three superlative houses.

Osprey Bend has a Craftsman-style

interior with furnishings made from

local cedar, maple, myrtle and cherry

woods. is lodging also features open

common spaces with 180-degree river

views, a large well-equipped kitchen and

a wraparound deck with a barbecue. e

concierge is happy to purchase provisions

in advance. Fishing, boating and kayaking

can be arranged, and ﬁne hiking trails

are close by.

The Willows Inn

Lummi Island, Washington

Though this haven on Lummi Island

feels remote from civilization, it is just a

10-minute ferry ride from the mainland

(110 miles north of Seattle). Normally,

Blaine Wetzel’s sensational restaurant

is the star attraction, but at this time

the stylish oﬀ-site multibedroom homes

may be more of a draw. While ameni-

ties vary, these all come with kitchens

or kitchenettes and dining areas. e

two-bedroom Rosario Guest House oﬀers

a private sauna, and the Loganita Loft

has exclusive beach access, while High

Tide, Beach House and Low Tide are set

together within a cliﬀside beachfront

complex, which could be rented in its

entirety by a group of eight people.

Lummi Island is a place to enjoy the

simple pleasures of life by the sea: ﬁshing,

crabbing, boating or just lounging on the

beach with a book.

Read about recommended hideaways that

are currently available for an exclusive

buyout at HideawayReport.com.

Veranda of the Costilla Fishing Lodge at Vermejo Park Ranch, New Mexico

Private house at Post Ranch Inn, California

COSTILLA FISHING LODGE: JACK RICHMOND

POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD

Full-service expert travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or reservations@AndrewHarperTravel.com.

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Going Green in Montana

A select number of our recommended hotels

have remained member favorites over an

extended period of time. One of these is The

Resort at Paws Up, located 32 miles from Mis-

soula, a property set on a 37,000-acre work-

ing ranch in the valley of the Blackfoot River.

It was therefore with particular interest that I

learned of the upcoming debut of The Green O,

an associated resort comprising 12 so-called

Haus accommodations, constructed at the

southern edge of the estate. The original ranch

was established in 1915 by Paul Greenough,

who branded his sheep with a large green “O.”

Later a nearby town was named Greenough in

his honor. The new resort promises a “blend of

adventure and serenity.” In addition to eques-

trian activities like the all-day Frontiersman

Ride and strenuous hiking excursions, more

tranquil pastimes are offered, such as fly-

fishing on the Blackfoot and Missouri rivers.

In winter, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and

skiing come to the fore. The resort’s restau-

rant, the Social Haus, will serve local seasonal

cuisine, prepared in an open kitchen, with “live

fire” cooking a specialty.

Bangkok Urban Retreat

Bangkok has long been famous for its grand

hotels. Now the city can boast a new boutique

property, the 47-room Villa de Pranakorn,

located in the lively and historic Sam Yot

district, a short drive to the east of the Grand

Palace. The hotel is owned by Kittisuwan family

who emigrated from southern China to Thailand

over a century ago. Set around a courtyard pool,

the property’s design was inspired by the area’s

Sino-Portuguese architecture. Samranraj, a

fine-dining restaurant, is helmed by Bangkok-

native Chef Jatupoom “Bank” Suksiri. His menu

offers dishes such as Chinese-spiced duck

breast and seared foie gras with tamarind,

wild mulberries, coriander chutney and black

currant sauce, and stir-fried spider crab leg with

yellow curry powder and seasonal vegetables.

(The Villa is located at the heart of one of

Bangkok’s most vibrant culinary districts, and

the street-side restaurant Raan Jay Fai, made

famous by “Chef’s Table” on Netflix, as well

as by the award of a Michelin star in 2018, is

just 350 yards away.) Other amenities at the

hotel include a treatment room and a small

fitness center.

New & Noteworthy

FROM THE EDITOR

Future Flight Plans

s travel begins to revive, there

will doubtless be beneﬁciaries

of the changed world that we

now inhabit. Given health concerns and

the inconvenience of new procedures at

airports, private aviation is likely to expand.

Indeed, our Travel Ofﬁce has already seen

a signiﬁcant uptick in inquiries about the

services of our partner PrivateFly for

leisure trips within the United States. For

many years prior to the coronavirus crisis,

Andrew Harper members regularly signed

up for private jet expeditions organized by

a second partner company, TCS World

Travel. In particular, they joined “Around

the World” journeys, odysseys of up to

28 days in length. In normal times, such

tours enabled travelers to see many

of the world’s great sights much more

efﬁciently than would be possible using

commercial aviation. Of course, the

advantages of such trips are now even

more apparent. The most luxurious of

the company’s jets, a customized Boeing

757, has just 52 ﬂatbed seats, within a

controlled environment where cleanliness

can be guaranteed. Private planes often

ﬂy into smaller airports, and customs and

immigration can be expedited. Safety on

sightseeing excursions can be ensured,

and enhanced heath provisions put

in place. Unsurprisingly, TCS has had

to cancel or postpone a number of its

journeys in 2020. However, I am told that

planning is well underway for trips next

year. Welcome to the new normal!

One of the 12 accommodations at The Green O

Villa de Pranakorn, Bangkok

99-100 — A truly great hotel, among

the finest of its kind in the world

96-98 — An exceptional hotel of great

individuality and distinction

93-95 — An outstanding hotel of

genuine sophistication

90-92 — A fine hotel with considerable

charm about which we have minor

reservations

89 & Below — A hotel that did not meet the

required standards

Find all of our recommended hotels at

HideawayReport.com.

HOTEL RATINGS